Hello everyone,

I want to start by apologizing for my extended absence over the holiday season and New Year’s break. Between my day job and this, I needed some time off—but we are so back, baby. And now that I’m back, I plan to commit to posting at least once a month throughout 2025 (maybe even pivot into this long-form format, if all goes well?) Let’s get into it.

What Does It Mean to Have ‘Good Taste’?

Lately, I’ve noticed a surge of articles on collectors’ profiles and collection showcases flooding our community. While it’s interesting to see so many voices share their collecting guides and curated collections, I’ve been left a bit skeptical (I also wrote a similar topic earlier last year for Hairspring). Many of these posts seem to embrace a kind of unchecked accumulation without truly questioning what ‘good taste’ means in watch collecting. That observation got me thinking and eventually led me to write this essay on the subject.

’Good taste’ is a phrase often thrown around, but what does it truly mean, especially when it comes to things like personal style and watch collecting? Some might argue it’s not about following trends blindly or accumulating the most expensive items. But, some might say it’s about developing a discerning eye and making thoughtful choices that reflect a deep appreciation for quality, craftsmanship, and personal expression.

In personal style, good taste goes beyond simply wearing fashionable clothes. It’s about understanding the principles of design, such as fit, proportion, colour harmony, and texture. Someone with good taste in fashion prioritizes quality over quantity, investing in well-made pieces that will last for years. They know how to curate a wardrobe that reflects their personality, incorporating both classic and trendy elements in a way that feels authentic and effortless. They understand that personal style is a form of self-expression, and they use it to communicate their values, interests, and individuality.

Defining Taste Through the Lens of Watch Collecting

Similarly, good taste in watch collecting is not about owning the most expensive or hyped-up timepieces, but about developing a deep understanding of horology and appreciating the artistry and engineering that goes into each watch. In today’s world, where luxury is as much about personal expression as it is about exclusivity, the concept of good taste has taken on a nuanced significance. Nowhere is this more apparent than in the realm of collecting. Good taste in this context means the ability to discern beauty and quality in an object whose value is as much cultural as it is monetary. Yet, what exactly does it mean to have ‘good taste’ when it comes to watches? Is it defined by the brand names and astronomical price tags we see on celebrity wrists, or is it something more personal, a reflection of one’s unique style and knowledge of horology?

At the very least, ‘good taste’ is an aesthetic judgment. A set of refined preferences that allow an individual to appreciate subtle differences in design, quality, and cultural significance. In the context of watch collecting, a collector with good taste researches and seeks out watches that have historical significance, innovative design, or exceptional craftsmanship. They are drawn to timepieces that reflect the personalities and passions of their makers, and they are not afraid to venture beyond the mainstream brands. They are driven by a genuine love for watches, and they take pride in curating a collection that tells a story.

Philosophers and art critics have long debated the nature of taste. Some argue that taste is innate, a kind of sensibility that cannot be taught, while others contend that it is cultivated over time through exposure to art, history, and appreciating craftsmanship. When it comes to watches, a collector with ‘good taste’ is often one who has immersed themselves deeply in the language of horology. They know, for example, what a black polishing is, or how a lever escapement works. Such details, as subtle as the curve of a lug or the dial’s Clous de Paris pattern are what differentiate a mere time-telling device from a work of art.

Moreover, good taste is not solely about appreciating what is traditionally considered ‘expensive’ or ‘rare.’ In many ways, it also embraces the idea that beauty can be found in simplicity. Some collectors prize vintage Seikos or Casios for their simple design and robust functionality, arguing that these pieces represent a purer form of aesthetic integrity. This perspective is supported by voices in the community who claim that a watch’s emotional resonance and personal significance can elevate its status far beyond what its price tag might suggest. In other words, good taste in watch collecting is as much about personal connection and context as it is about objective quality.

This view is echoed by experts who formulate their own sets of principles or “rules” for watch collecting. For instance, GQ’s recent article on the rules of watch collecting emphasizes that the best collections are built upon personal guidelines that prioritize what makes one genuinely happy, and often summed up in the simple advice: “Buy what you like, and wear what you buy”. Such guidelines remind us that at the heart of good taste lies the collector’s ability to remain true to their own vision, rather than succumbing to market hype or peer pressure.

The Hallmark of Quality

A key pillar in any discussion of good taste in watch collecting is the uncompromising pursuit of quality craftsmanship. High-end watches are often celebrated not only for their striking designs but also for the engineering ingenuity that goes into their creation. When a collector admires a timepiece like a Patek or A. Lange & Söhne, they are often drawn to the exquisite attention to detail such as the hand-engraved dials, the perfectly finished movements, and the subtle play of light on precious metals and gemstones. Such elements are not accidental but are the product of decades (or even centuries) of refinement in watchmaking techniques.

Take, for example, the legendary status of a Calatrava, with its minimalist yet elegant design, has long been hailed as a paradigm of refined taste. Collectors argue that owning such a piece is an expression of discernment and an appreciation for a storied legacy that spans generations. The rising value of certain vintage Patek Philippe models over the years highlights how enduring quality and refined taste often go hand in hand.

Yet, the emphasis on craftsmanship does not imply that only the most expensive watches are worthy of admiration. Many collectors find beauty in the unpretentious, utilitarian designs of watches that are built to last, such as vintage Seikos or even well-regarded microbrands. These pieces may lack the ostentation of a diamond-paved Rolex but offer a purity of design and reliability that many consider the true essence of good taste. Indeed, the debate over what constitutes ‘good’ or ‘refined’ design is itself a subject of lively discussion within the community. While some purists may argue that only watches with impeccable finishing are acceptable, others contend that the value of a timepiece can also lie in its functionality, robustness, or even its quirky idiosyncrasies. This divergence in opinion highlights a central truth: taste is inherently subjective.

Personal Narrative and the Subjectivity of Taste

One of the most satisfying aspects of watch collecting is its deeply personal dimension. Every collector brings their own story to the hobby. Stories of early inspirations, personal milestones, and evolving tastes. For some, a first watch might have been a modest gift that sparked a lifelong interest in horology; for others, it might be the culmination of years of diligent research and a deepening understanding of design. The personal narrative attached to a watch often transforms it from a mere object into a cherished memento imbued with memories and meaning.

Consider the case of Dr. Bernard Cheong (he has his own ‘watch collecting’ section on his Wikipedia page, believe it or not), a Singaporean physician whose watch-collecting journey began in 1973 with a Flyback Seiko Chronograph gifted by his parents. Over the decades, Dr. Cheong has amassed an eclectic collection that reflects not only his refined taste but also his unique experiences and personal connections to the watch community. His journey illustrates that good taste is not a static quality, but evolves as one’s understanding deepens and as one’s life circumstances change. In this light, a collector’s taste is as much about their personal growth as it is about their ability to discern beauty in design.

*A glimpse of Dr. Cheong’s massive collection. Image credit: Lauren Ishak for the NYT.*

However, this deeply personal nature of taste also means that what one collector considers exquisite might be dismissed by another as overly flashy or, conversely, too plain. This subjectivity is at the heart of many debates within the community. For example, while some collectors extol the virtues of a classic Rolex Submariner, others argue that such a watch is too pedestrian and lacks the distinctive character of a more offbeat model. Discussions on forums and social media platforms reveal that tastes change over time, even among seasoned collectors, with many acknowledging that what they once prized now seems passé or overly hyped.

These conversations again highlight an important counterargument that good taste cannot be dictated solely by external standards or market trends. It is an ongoing, dynamic process that reflects one’s unique personality and experiences. In other words, while expert opinions and established guidelines can offer valuable insights, they must ultimately be filtered through the lens of personal preference. In this sense, a watch that might seem ‘ordinary’ to one person can be an object of profound beauty and meaning to another.

Counterarguments: The Critique of ‘Trend-Driven Collecting’

Despite the reverence with which many collectors speak of good taste, there are also voices that challenge the very notion. Critics argue that ‘good taste’ is a subjective, culturally constructed concept that often serves to reinforce elitism. In the higher-end of watch collecting, certain brands and models are lionized not only for their inherent qualities but also for the status they confer upon their owners. The prevalence of Rolex snobbery, for instance, has led some to question whether an obsession with well-known luxury brands is really a marker of good taste or merely an adherence to social signalling.

Some detractors claim that the market’s emphasis on rarity and high resale value distorts what truly matters in a watch. For them, the obsession with limited editions or exorbitantly priced models, even when these pieces are mechanically sound and beautifully finished, reduces watches to investment vehicles rather than objects of art. They argue that such a focus undermines the appreciation of less expensive, equally well-crafted watches that might offer greater emotional resonance or practicality. This critique is echoed in discussions about ‘investment watches’ where some observers caution against conflating monetary value with aesthetic merit .

Another counterargument centers on the idea that trends and market hype often dictate what is considered ‘good’ in watch collecting. For example, when a public figure like Mark Zuckerberg is seen wearing a $1 million Gruebel Forsey at a high-profile event, it can create a bandwagon effect that elevates certain models to near-mythical status—even if their design or functionality might not stand the test of time. Critics point out that such examples can pressure aspiring collectors to chase after expensive pieces in an effort to emulate celebrity style, rather than developing their own independent sense of taste. In doing so, the hobby risks becoming homogenized, with individual expression sacrificed on the altar of status and conformity.

Hand Made 1. Image credit: Gruebel Forsey.

Furthermore, the increasing influence of social media has added another layer of complexity. Platforms such as Instagram and TikTok now shape trends by pushing the algorithm and showing you photos of wristshots behind supercar steering wheels, etc. While this democratizes access to information and allows for broader participation in the hobby, it also risks reducing the rich, multifaceted art of watch collecting to a series of superficial visual trends. What once was a deeply personal and intellectually rigorous pursuit may be increasingly judged by its ‘Instagram appeal,’ where aesthetics are simplified into shareable, instantly gratifying images. This phenomenon has led some purists to bemoan the loss of depth in the conversation about watches, arguing that true good taste is about more than just surface-level glamour.

Taste vs. Investment

The debate over what constitutes good taste in watch collecting often intersects with the discussion of investment. Many collectors today face the dilemma of choosing watches that are not only beautiful and well-crafted but also likely to appreciate in value. On one hand, it is undeniable that certain watches, like a Vintage Patek command astronomical prices on the secondary market and are seen as both status symbols and investments. For example, a steel Patek 1518 might fetch millions at auction, suggesting that market forces validate its aesthetic and technical value, or in this case, rarity.

However, the emphasis on investment potential raises important questions about the nature of good taste. Should the primary criterion for selecting a watch be its likelihood to appreciate in value, or should it be the sheer pleasure derived from owning and wearing a beautifully designed object? Critics of an investment-driven approach argue that focusing too much on resale value can lead to choices driven by speculation rather than genuine appreciation. A watch that is bought solely as an investment may never be worn or appreciated for its artistic merits; instead, it becomes a financial asset insulated from the tactile, emotional experience that defines true horological passion.

There is a delicate balance to be struck between aesthetics and value. Some collectors advocate for a ‘buy what you love’ approach, where personal satisfaction trumps market considerations. This philosophy is encapsulated in the oft-repeated mantra among watch enthusiasts: “Buy what you like, and wear what you buy”. In this view, good taste is measured by the personal joy and meaning a watch provides rather than by its future market performance. Conversely, there is a school of thought that sees the two as mutually reinforcing that a watch that is aesthetically pleasing and impeccably crafted is likely to become a good investment over time because its beauty and craftsmanship endure.

The tension between these perspectives is part of what makes the discourse on good taste so rich and multifaceted. It invites collectors to consider whether their choices are driven by passion or by profit—and whether the two can coexist without compromising the integrity of their personal style. Ultimately, a watch collection that reflects good taste is one that strikes a harmonious balance between emotional fulfillment and the practical realities of ownership.

The Evolution of Taste in the Age of Social Media

Over the past decade, the watch collecting sector has undergone a significant transformation, much of which can be attributed to the rise of social media. Platforms such as Instagram, TikTok, and dedicated forums have not only democratized access to watch knowledge but have also redefined what is considered ‘in vogue.’ Today, a beautifully curated Instagram feed can propel a relatively unknown independent brand into the spotlight, while influencers and celebrity collectors set trends that ripple through the industry.

For example, GQ recently crowned Jaclyn Li (@adoseoftime) as GQ’s 2024 Watch Collector of the Year. Li’s approach to collecting is marked by spontaneity and an organic mix of pieces that reflect both heritage and innovation. Her willingness to embrace diversity in her collection, from vintage Pateks to modern creations like the Berneron Mirage, highlights the idea that good taste is not confined to a single style or era. Instead, it is about curating a collection that tells a personal story, one that evolves with the collector’s experiences and influences.

However, the influence of social media also brings challenges. The constant bombardment of images and opinions can sometimes pressure collectors into chasing trends rather than cultivating an independent sense of style. Take, the recent surge in popularity of ‘geezer watches’. This just illustrates how easily fleeting trends can capture collective attention. What is ‘hot’ today may be passé tomorrow, and the risk is that superficial aesthetics may overshadow a deeper appreciation for craftsmanship and history. Critics argue that this trend toward ‘Instagrammable' watches risks trivializing the art of horology, reducing it to a series of hashtags and likes. Nonetheless, many believe that social media has opened up the hobby to a broader audience, allowing more people to develop their own refined tastes. The result is a vibrant, albeit sometimes chaotic, dialogue about what it means to truly appreciate a watch.

In this new era, the traditional markers of good taste are being challenged by innovative designs, bold colour choices, and even the resurgence of vintage digital timepieces. As The Guardian recently noted, there is a return to non‑smart, mechanical wristwatches among younger collectors, reflecting a growing desire for authenticity and a connection to the past. Whether this shift ultimately broadens or dilutes our definition of good taste remains to be seen, but it is clear that the very concept of taste is evolving alongside the industry itself.

Case Study: Mark Cho

Mark Cho is not your typical watch collector. A co-founder of The Armoury, Cho has become renowned not only for his extensive collection but also for his candid, principle‑driven approach to collecting. Recently, he began sharing his “Principles of Watch Collecting” on Instagram. The twelve hard‑earned rules that have come to define his aesthetic and collecting philosophy. His transparent, no‑nonsense attitude has sparked much discussion in the community, prompting fellow enthusiasts to reexamine their own motivations and definitions.

Cho’s core philosophy is a critical stance against the notion that rarity alone equates to quality. He states,

“Rare watches are not always great, great watches are not always rare.”
This rule encapsulates his belief that the true measure of a watch lies in its design, craftsmanship, and emotional resonance rather than simply its scarcity or price tag. Mark’s approach is a call to collectors: look beyond market hype and listen to what truly captivates you.

Cho’s own collection reflects his commitment to thoughtful, discerning curation. Rather than accumulating watches based solely on their hype or price, he carefully selects each piece for its intrinsic merits. His collection includes both vintage models like the Calatrava and works from recent independent watchmakers like Naoya Hida. By focusing on watches that fuse personal significance with exceptional design, Cho demonstrates that refined taste is as much about personal narrative as it is about technical finesse. Cho has also previously sold off parts of his collection to focus on quality over quantity, an approach that emphasizes his commitment to a living, evolving collection.

Cho’s rule serves as a reminder that good taste in watch collecting is ultimately a personal, evolving standard. His emphasis on personal satisfaction and critical appraisal over superficial rarity has redefined what it means to curate a meaningful collection. His story reinforces true connoisseurship lies in the courage to pursue what genuinely speaks to you, even if it goes against the grain of mainstream collecting.

Finding and Defining Your Taste

Ultimately, the journey toward good taste in watch collecting is a deeply personal one. It involves self‑reflection, education, and, importantly, a willingness to take risks. Many collectors eventually develop their own ‘rules’ or guidelines, principles that help them determine what to buy and, more crucially, what to leave behind. As noted by watch experts, a well‑curated collection is one that resonates with the owner’s personality and lifestyle, rather than simply mirroring the latest market trends.

Again, one piece of advice often echoed in watch collecting circles is to “buy what you love, and wear what you buy.” This maxim encapsulates the idea that good taste should be measured by personal satisfaction rather than by adherence to external standards or hype. When you develop your own aesthetic sensibility, you learn to appreciate details that might escape the notice of a casual observer like a unique dial texture here, an innovative movement there, or even a subtle design quirk that gives a watch its character. This self‑awareness, combined with ongoing education through books, forums, and social media, enables collectors to refine their taste over time.

Moreover, a thoughtful collector will often view their collection as a living, evolving narrative. Rather than accumulating watches indiscriminately, the goal is to build a collection that tells a coherent story, be it a story of personal growth, changing tastes, and the joy of discovery. This approach not only ensures that every piece in the collection has meaning but also guards against the pitfalls of over‑collecting and the ensuing ‘collection fatigue’ that many enthusiasts lament. In doing so, the collector’s own journey becomes the ultimate measure of good taste.

Last Words

In the final analysis, good taste in watch collecting is not an absolute standard imposed from without but a dynamic, personal process of discovery and refinement. It is the ability to recognize and appreciate the interplay of design, craftsmanship, history, and personal narrative in a timepiece. It is evident in the discerning eye that can differentiate between a watch that is merely expensive and one that is a true work of art.

While there are counterarguments that challenge traditional markers of good taste, the beauty of watch collecting lies in its diversity. Ultimately, good taste is not measured by the price tag or the resale value but by the joy and meaning that each timepiece brings to its owner.

In a world where trends change rapidly and social media often blurs the lines between art and commodity, the true mark of a discerning collector remains the same, which is an unwavering commitment to personal expression, a deep respect for the heritage of horology, and the courage to define one’s own standards of beauty. That is what it truly means to have good taste.

What Makes a Collection ‘Good’?