Before the resurgence of lapis lazuli & aventurine dials, these ‘salmon’ dials were once all the rage a few years back. These pinkish, copper-toned dials were everywhere, from Patek Philippe to A. Lange & Söhne, and even Audemars Piguet. It’s a look that’s undeniably striking that stems from mid-century aesthetics. Don’t get me wrong, I love a salmon dial.

Full disclosure, I’ve never considered myself a Breitling person, especially when it comes to their more modern offerings. Sure, I respect the brand’s heritage, but I’ve always gravitated more towards simpler designs of Breitling’s vintage pieces. Breitling's newer designs often felt too bulky or flashy for my taste. That said, when I first saw the Premier B25 Datora with its copper dial, I found myself reconsidering. This watch, with its nods to vintage Breitling aesthetics and that irresistible coppery hue, had me paying attention. Let's dive in.

A Bit of History

Breitling has an impressive lineage when it comes to chronographs, dating back to the early days of wristwatches. In the 19th century, pocket watch chronographs (or stopwatches) typically featured separate buttons, or pushers, to control the timing mechanism. It was a design challenge to fit this technology into a wristwatch case, but Breitling was one of the first to succeed, patenting their invention in 1915.

By 1932, Willy Breitling had taken the reins of the company, and under his leadership, Breitling patented and launched the modern chronograph as we know it today. In 1934, they were the first to develop and release a chronograph with two separate pushers at 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock — one to start and stop the mechanism and the other to reset it. This became a defining feature of chronographs going forward.

The term "Datora," first introduced by Breitling in the 1940s, refers to a complete calendar chronograph that showcases the day, date, month, and moon phases. Breitling’s history with the Datora goes back to the 1940s, where the line was known for its triple-calendar chronographs. They were robust, sporty, and packed with functionality — essentially, tool watches with some added flair. Though Breitling went through several ownership changes, the Datora has remained a cornerstone in the collection as a nod to their rich history.

Fast forward to 2021, and Breitling brings the Datora into the modern era with the Premier B25. It’s a vintage revival with a twist — incorporating plenty of design cues from those mid-century originals but with modern touches. And of course, that salmon dial. Or, well, maybe not. More on that in a bit.

What’s the Deal with the Dial?

Let’s pause here for a moment to talk about the dial colour itself. It’s not exactly new. In fact, salmon dials were a full-blown trend decades ago, especially during the mid-20th century. Back then, watches with pinkish, coppery tones were everywhere, particularly in more formal, dressier pieces. However, as trends do, the salmon dial fell out of favor for a while as the watch world shifted towards cleaner, more minimalist designs in the latter part of the century.

There's something timeless about that soft pinkish hue — elegant yet bold, modern yet undeniably vintage. And while the Breitling Premier B25 Datora may look like it’s jumping on that bandwagon, they’ve taken a slightly different approach. Breitling calls it a "copper dial," and they’re not wrong. It’s less rosy and more earthy, giving the watch a vintage charm without feeling like a direct imitation of more traditional offerings. Breitling’s own take on a classic aesthetic.

Design and Details

Visually, the Premier B25 Datora is anything but simple. Its dial is a playground of layers, textures, and details. You’ve got everything from raised arabic numerals to sunken day and month windows, not to mention the sub-dials for the chronograph and moon phase. The layout is complex but surprisingly balanced and manages to avoid the cluttered look that some triple calendars can fall into.

At 42mm, the case is a bit on the larger side, but it wears comfortably, thanks to the thoughtfully designed lugs and double-stepped bezel. It’s also 15.3mm thick, which adds some heft, but the domed sapphire crystal and polished edges give it a vintage-inspired flair. The dark brown alligator strap is the perfect complement to the copper dial, enhancing the overall warmth of the watch. The blued chronograph hands add a pop of color that contrasts beautifully with the dial, while the syringe-style hour and minute hands nod to vintage designs. The tachymeter scale around the edge is a nice touch.

Breitling’s casework deserves some special mention here. The flanks of the case are grooved in an art-deco style, a throwback to older Breitling references, with polished grooves contrasting against the brushed sides. Even the pushers get a vintage nod — they’re brushed on the broad surfaces and polished at the facets, making the details pop. This level of finishing is usually found on more expensive watches, so it’s a pleasant surprise to see it at this price point.

Form Meets Function

Now, let’s talk movement. The Breitling Caliber 25 powers the B25, and while it might not be as elaborately finished as some of the high-end pieces you’d find in Patek or Vacheron , it’s still impressive. This automatic movement, based on the Concepto 2000-RAC-2822, has its roots in the ever-ubiquitous ETA 2892 and draws inspiration from the Valjoux 7750 — a movement hailed for its robustness and reliability.

Breitling worked with Concepto to develop the Caliber 25, but the finishing and assembly are done in-house. The movement is chronometer-certified, which means you’re getting a high degree of accuracy, even with all those complications. The movement is rhodium-plated for corrosion resistance, and the automatic rotor is finished with Côtes de Genève striping, with perlage on the baseplate for good measure.

Comparing the Competition

When it comes to salmon dials and vintage-inspired designs, the Breitling B25 Datora finds itself in some pretty esteemed company. Take the Vacheron Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar for example. With its sleek, 38.5mm manually wound chronograph, the Vacheron sticks closely to its mid-century roots. Its slimmer proportions and more pared-down dial make it feel closer to a true vintage piece, though at a significantly higher price point.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar. Image credit: Time + Tide

Let’s address the elephant in the room here: the Patek 5270P. It’s easy to look at the Breitling B25 Datora and think it’s a more affordable alternative to the Patek. But honestly, the B25 isn’t trying to be a substitute for the 5270P — it’s its own thing. While both have salmon dials and share a similar aesthetic with calendar and chronograph functions, the Patek is in a different league when it comes to craftsmanship, heritage, and the exclusivity of haute horlogerie. The Breitling is more casual, more grounded, and more accessible (relatively), which is precisely where it shines.

Parting Thoughts

In the last three decades, Breitling has undergone quite the transformation, but with pieces like the Premier B25 Datora, they’re showing a clear commitment to their heritage. At under CAD$20,000, the B25 Datora offers a lot of watch for the money. If you’re someone who’s into vintage-inspired design but wants modern reliability (and let’s face it, greater water resistance), the B25 is a no brainer.

The Premier B25 Datora is a pleasant surprise. It’s a modern watch with deep roots in the brand’s history, and it manages to combine vintage aesthetics with modern functionality in a way that feels genuine, not forced. And while I might not be a “modern Breitling person,” I have to admit this watch made me think twice. It’s not perfect, but it doesn’t need to be. It’s not trying to be a substitute for a Patek or a Vacheron — it’s its own thing, and it does that thing very well.

Special thanks to Mariah and her team at Bloor Street Breitling boutique for taking the time to explain and let me explore the watch.

Hands On: Breitling Premier B25 Datora ‘Copper’